Journal Article
Final report on the safety assessment of Glycolic Acid, Ammonium, Calcium, Potassium, and Sodium Glycolates, Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, and Butyl Glycolates, and Lactic Acid, Ammonium, Calcium, Potassium, Sodium, and TEA-Lactates, Methyl, Ethyl, Isopropyl, and Butyl Lactates, and Lauryl, Myristyl, and Cetyl Lactates
Bergfeld, WF; Belsito, DV; Carlton, WW; Klaassen, CD; Schroeter, AL; Shank, RC; Slaga, TJ; Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
International Journal of Toxicology
ISSN: 1091-5818
EISSN: 1092-874X
This report provides a review of the safety of Glycolic Acid, Ammonium, Calcium, Potassium, and Sodium Glycolates, Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, and Butyl Glycolates, Lactic Acid, Ammonium, Calcium, Potassium, Sodium and TEA-Lactates, and Lauryl, Myristyl, and Cetyl Lactates. These ingredients belong to a group known as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). Products containing these ingredients may be for consumer use, salon use, or medical use. This report does not address the medical use. In consumer and salon use, AHAs can function as mild exfoliants, but are also used as pH adjusters and skin-conditioning agents. AHAs are absorbed by the skin; the lower the pH, the greater the absorption. Metabolism and distribution studies show expected pathways and distribution. Consistent with these data, acute oral animal studies show oxalate-induced renal calculi, an increase in renal oxalate, and nephrotoxic effects. No systemic effects in animals were seen with dermal application, but irritation at the sight of application was produced. While many animal studies were performed to evaluate AHA-induced skin irritation, it was common for either the AHA concentration or the pH of the formulation to be omitted, limiting the usefulness of the data. Clinical testing using AHA formulations of known concentration and pH teas done to address the issue of skin irritation as a function of concentration and pH. Skin irritation increased with AHA concentration at a given pH. Skin irritation increased when the pH of a given AHA concentration was lowered. Repeat insult patch tests using lotions and creams containing up to 10% Glycolic or Lactic Acid were negative. Glycolic Acid at concentrations up to 10% was not comedogenic and Lactic Acid at the same concentrations did not cause immediate urticarial reactions. Glycolic Acid was found to be nonirritating to minimally irritating in animal ocular tests, while Lactic Acid was found to be nonirritating to moderately irritating. In vitro testing to predict ocular irritation suggested Glycolic Acid would be a minimal to moderate-severe ocular irritant, and that Lactic Acid would be a minimal to moderate ocular irritant. Developmental and maternal toxicity were reported in rats dosed by gavage at the highest dose level used in a study