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7179683 
Journal Article 
Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing 
Draper, N; Canalejo, JC; Fryer, S; Dickson, T; Winter, D; Ellis, G; Hamlin, M; Shearman, J; North, C; , 
2011 
Yes 
Isokinetics and Exercise Science
ISSN: 0959-3020 
IOS PRESS 
AMSTERDAM 
19 
4 
273-280 
WOS:000297319400006 
Rock climbing is an increasingly popular adventure sport with a growing research base. To date the growth of research and reporting styles has been somewhat haphazard and as a consequence comparison between studies can be problematic. The aim of this paper was to make suggestions about a number of changes that could be made to improve the consistency in reporting between studies. Included with this paper are two new tables, one each for male and female climbers. These provide comparative grading scales for use in reporting for future studies. These tables also provide a suggested framework for grouping climbers according to their ability. Using the tables researchers could group the climbers in their study by a category name (lower grade, intermediate, advanced, elite or higher elite climber) or by a number (level 1-5). In addition, the authors make recommendations about climber characteristics that could usefully be reported in future to assist comparison between studies. It would be helpful to readers if the self-reported, highest lead climbs (on-sight and redpoint) could be reported for a climbing group, along with the types of climbing regularly undertaken. 
Rock climbing; grade tables; climbing grades; Ewbank scale; Yosemite decimal scale; sport climing